Germany - Burg Eltz

From all the castles in this region, Burg Eltz holds a special place in my heart and every time I visit it is pure joy. It is far enough form Luxembourg so going there is almost like a day trip, but at the same time is close enough to visit it as many times as I want during summer. 

There is also Vianden, but being the only complete castle in Luxembourg arranged in a medieval style, it's always crowded with tourists, Eltz is still different.

What makes Eltz unique is that it is still owned by the same family since the 12th century and that is was never destroyed, which means that what you see now is the actual castle and not a reconstruction as most of the castles that made it to our time. 

Actually, there are three castles in one, each of them owned by a different family. You see you had to be very rich to afford a castle so examples such as Eltz are common. In our days tourists visit only two of the castles as the third is still inhabited. Also Burg Eltz is visited from April to October, so if you plan your visit this summer you have to hurry.

By car, Burg Eltz is at about an hour and a half from Luxembourg, you have a generous parking and terraces for coffee or even food. Be warned though, you can only pay cash at the restaurants, but you can purchase your ticket by card.

I hope you loved reading this post as much as I loved putting it together! Also, if you fancy keeping in contact with me, drop a line at Dichisuri.ro on Facebook.

Raluca

Romania - Sarmizegetusa Regia

Dear friends, I wanted to visit this monument since I can remember, but it was never its turn, until this year when we went to Romania especially to see it.

Sarmizegetusa Regia was the capital and the political and religious centre of the Dacians prior to the Roman conquest. Build on top of a 1200 metres high mountain, Sarmizegetusa Regia is part of a chain of six fortresses, the Dacian strategic defence system in the Orăștie Mountains.

It is not to be confused with Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, the Roman capital built by Emperor Traian after he concurred Dacia.

For me it was important to know that part of history since I've discovered so many times that what we've learned at history in school was a little altered. I wanted to see, to feel for myself and I was not disappointed.

Word of advice though, go to Sarmizegetusa Regia with your lesson learned and time to spare and try to visit all six fortresses and Traian's capital. We went on a hurry, but for sure in this lifetime I will be back.

Legend says that the archaeological site was altered by a Romanian movie filmed in the area, part of the communistic propaganda concerning our history. For me the site was impressive and I am glad I visited it. I could not pinpoint what was real and what was build up by the film crew, but the area has a specific energy.

I wanted so badly to reach the site that I almost run the last two kilometres which are to be walked to the site from the parking so when I arrived I found the first free bench and had a glucose reduction and almost fainted. I wanted so badly to have water, but unfortunately drank it all on our way, but as a miracle there is a spring of water in the middle of the archaeological site. With my powers back I visited the whole site and spent almost three hours watching and taking all in.

The most relevant connection I could make was with Newgrange in Ireland. In my mind the structure in Sarmizegetusa looked similar to what I saw in Ireland. I might be wrong, but I've already said it, I have to read more and go back more informed about Dacians. Everything is connected, the fact that I've ended up in Ireland, that I'm Romanian and that I now live in Arlonia.

For me Dacii (Dacians) are from legends, so being able to touch something they created was surreal. It was the prove that they existed and that at one point in time, we were someone. Romania has such a tormented history and as a migrant I feel the need to connect to something real, to be able to be proud of my origins. I felt that proudness in Sarmizegetusa. I felt I was part of something bigger that is only revealed to me now. I want to read and go back and walk the path between the six monuments and I know that somehow that is going to be possible in the near future. I leave the desire here and I'm sure the universe will listen.

For me Sarmizegetusa Regia seemed only as a religious capital, no sight of fortifications, no sight of living structures. It was an adventure, a point in time to be remembered. As it happened I was wearing one of my beloved Romanian Blouses with ram horns, I found a four leaf clover which reassured my connection to Ireland, I was impressed and I want to go back, someday.

Here are my pictures:

I hope you loved reading this post as much as I loved putting it together! Also, if you fancy keeping in contact with me, drop a line at Dichisuri.roon Facebook.

Raluca

Luxembourg - The Multicultural Schueberfouer

Now that Schuebi (short for Schueberfouer, an autumn funfair which happens in Luxembourg since 1340) is over, let's talk about what you missed if you did not check it out. For a month everyone living in Luxembourg, but especially the ones living next to the Glacis area, got a taste of the goodies sold at the fair, enjoyed the parties, tried the roller coasters and had sleepless nights because of the general noise.

But if you pass all the inconveniences, all the crowds, all the noises and the smells, you are left with a very multicultural experience, as I do believe culture is expressed through its dishes. Where else (except maybe Bazar International) could you sample the delicacies from Italy, Germany, Romania, Greece or Portugal?

Bare in mind, those stalls are kept by migrants to Luxembourg and the tastes were adapted to the ones required by people living here. But, nevertheless you can get an idea about the certain dishes specific to a country or a region. There are a lot of stereotypes, which are put to the mix, such as pasta from Italy or churros from Spain, when in fact churros is different from one region to the next in Spain and throughout Southern America.
When I was first introduced to Schueberfouer by my Luxembourgish friend, I was told about the tradition to eat some sort of fish, mussel (moule) or sea fruits in one of the many restaurants placed in tents and, of course, sample the local beer. I did that on the first year and because I'm a fussy eater I did not eat at Schueberfouer for the next three years, until I've discovered the sweets.

 When I think about Holland I think about raw herring and not gaufres, but since in our days everything is so mixed, I guess they got some inspiration from their Belgian neighbours, so here is Holland at Schueberfouer.

When living in such a multicultural place you create your own traditions, so for me the potato pancakes (gromperekichelcher) are more associated with the Christmas Market, so no chance I would eat that in the summer. I guess they are an all year dish for the German part of Luxembourg as you could find them everywhere at the Schuebi.

Churros, crepes, everything sweet for your taste-buds. 

Brezeln from Bavaria

Kurtos from Romania. 

Wait, we have to talk here. I say from Romania, because I love them, they have a special place in my heart and are owned by Romanians, but of course you can find kurtos kolacs from Transylvania to Vienna and in the south to Belgrade, every country on the way claiming this sweet dish. If you ask wiki and I think it is right, kurtos kolacs or chimney cake originates from Hungary. The traditional one is with a lot of sugar and nuts, but you can find them even with chocolate flakes if you want to. 

Now that Schuebi is over I will miss them till the Christmas Market :(

If this hut doesn't scream Greece, I don't know what does. 

Italian pasta, anyone?

Simon is a Luxembourgish beer, an ok-ish beer I might say, but I live in Belgium so my beer taste is up on a certain level :) Nonetheless, Simon is a good beer, try it if you have the chance.

Again a potato pancake stall 

This is flamed salmon advertised at the Schueberfouer as a Finnish dish. It is very good and after tasting it at the Christmas Market and now at the Schueberfouer I want to go to Finland. You see, cuisine can be a very good promoter of a country :)

I think it was a Bavarian hut, but I'm not sure. It had beer, that's about all I can say about it. To be fair, by the time I arrived there, I had Finnish salmon and a lot of sweets, so beer was all I could fit in. 

Another hut with a lot of wursts, a pork sausage.

It would not be Schueberfouer without the gingerbread harts.

Last but not least I arrived in Portugal.

"Pastel de nata" is a Portuguese sweet dish I've heard a lot about. Even if the Portuguese community is very big here in Luxembourg, I've never tried it here. I'm not saying you can't find pastel de nata in Luxembourg, I'm just saying I don't know where to find it in Luxembourg. Well, lucky me, I've spotted this hut right before I was about to leave Schuebi and bought some for the road home.

As I always say, look for the story. I hope that at some point someone would organise guided food tours within the Schueberfouer, as I would be the first one the sign in. Because I was lucky enough to go there also on a not so busy day and I've talked with the sellers and asked questions, I got a better view of the funfair and its multicultural dimension. 

I hope you loved reading this post as much as I loved putting it together! Also, if you fancy keeping in contact with me, drop a line at Dichisuri.ro on Facebook.

Raluca

România - Iași - Expozitia ”Zestrea Satului Bănățean” la Palatul Culturii

Dragilor,

de ceva timp nu am mai scris în română și parcă îmi era puțin dor, cu atât mai mult cu cât tocmai m-am întors din România și am tolba plină cu povești. Astăzi am să vă vorbesc despre o expoziție pe care semnele mi-au arătat că o voi vizita încă din martie de când am deschis Aidoma la Luxemburg.

Stânga, cămașa din colecția lui Marius Matei. Dreapta, replica din expoziția IA Aidoma cusută de Irina Agachi

Să vă povestesc. În martie, la expoziția din Luxemburg în premieră au intrat trei cămăși printre care și prima cămașă de Banat. Banatul ca zona etnografică a dat o grămadă de minunății, dar cel mai tare m-a impresionat să aflu că cele mai multe cămăși bănățene au coloană vertebrală (adică broderia pe spate este fix pe coloană și nu râuri ca în Muscel, de exemplu). Asta a aprins ceva în mintea mea și mi-am dorit să știu mai multe. Apoi după terminarea expoziției, am avut ocazia să fotografiez cămășile și (cred că am mai povestit) cele cu negru stăteau cel mai bine pe manechin și ieșeau cel mai fain în poze.

Când amenajam expoziția în Elveția, la Bruxelles venea etnograful/muzeograful Marius Matei, cel care (după ce știu eu) are cea mai numeroasă și valoroasă colecție privată de costume din Banat, iar cămașa din expoziția Aidoma era o replică la una dintre cămășile lui. Tare m-am mai necăjit că nu am putut să ajung, că mi-am dorit mult și chiar era la o zvârlitură de băț, în Bruxelles.

Și știți voi că dorințele aruncate în lume se îndeplinesc? Uite așa la scurt timp după ce am decis să venim două săptămâni în România, la Palatul Culturii din Iași avea vernisajul fix expoziția ”Zestrea Satului Bănățean” cu piese din colecția lui Marius Matei. Am prins-o în penultima săptămână, dar am prins-o.

Așadar, aveam deja așteptările formate despre expoziție și nu a dezamăgit. Am plecat însă cu o urmă de regret, că oricât de mult aș citi, oricât de mult aș studia, tot sunt zone etnografice la care nu voi ajunge niciodată. Însă este fantastic că au apărut acești etnografi tineri, care au colecționat și colecționează doar dintr-o anumită zonă, devenind astfel experți pe acea zonă. Este fantastic că acești tineri sunt sprijiniți să scrie, să scoată cărți, să bată România și lumea cu expoziții, că uite așa și una ca mine, interesată în principal de Moldova, începe să aibă habar și de alte regiuni și cum se leagă ele la ansamblu.

Mie expoziția mi se pare fantastică și mă bucur că este o colecție privată, mai ușor de accesat decât una din muzeu și totuși o colecție valoroasă, dacă ajunge să fie expusă într-un muzeu ca Palatul Culturii din Iași. Mă uitam pe poze să selectez câteva pentru această postare și m-am înfiorat din nou, ca pe viu, de măiestria acelor mâini care au creat așa ceva.

Veți vedea lucrătură la fir, pe un material unde sincer eu nu vedeam firul, ochi, romburi, cârlige ale ciobanului, semne și simboluri pe care abia încep să le descifrez. Din ce știu eu, Banatul impresionează prin simplitate, prin figurile geometrice perfecte și prin șorțurile înflorate realizate printr-o tehnică ce abia acum o descifrează doamnele din Semne Cusute. A fost un noroc că am ajuns la expoziție și aleg să trec peste părțile negative prilejuite de proasta organizare a Muzeului Etnografic din Iași.

Vă las să admirați aceste minuni:

Evident în poze sunt costumele sau cămășile ce m-au atras cel mai mult pe mine. Expoziția cuprinde mai multe piese de port popular, costume atât bărbătești cât și femeiești. Este important să ne amintim cămașa ca parte a unui ansamblu, de aceea am fost impresionată să văd cum se purta cămașa a cărei replică a ajuns și la Luxemburg. Șorțul (catrință???) (sper să nu greșesc denumirea) este lucrat într-o tehnică fantastică, pe care am avut ocazia să o admir pe viu la expoziția IA Aievea din Sibiu, că doar ce v-am zis că totul are o legătură.

Sper că v-a plăcut să citiți această postare măcar atât de mult cât m-a încântat pe mine să o scriu! Dacă vreți să urmăriți activitatea acestui blog, apreciați pagina Dichisuri.ro pe Facebook.

Raluca

P. S. Ba am să spun câteva vorbe că mă mănâncă limba. Ce am semnalat cu alte ocazii despre Muzeul Etnografic de la Iași este încă valabil, oameni de proastă calitate ce doar păzesc expozițiile, incapabili să scoată o vorbă despre ce păzesc, turiști ce poate ar fi interesați de expoziții și nu ar trece ca gândul prin ele (am înțeles că tot palatul se vizitează într-o oră :D) dacă ar exista un ghid, ca sa ajungi la casa de bilete treci prin trei filtre de oameni puși acolo nu se știe exact de ce (paznicul de la ușă, băieții tineri și frumoși de la recepție și acritură de la magazinul de suveniruri), suveniruri de proastă calitate, nici o carte sau pliant despre Muzeul Etnografic. Practic Palatul e frumos de admirat și atât. Dacă dorești mai mult probabil există internetul pentru că acolo, pe loc, nu primești nimic. 

Romania - Hunedoara - Corvin Castle

Romania gives you a sour taste, exactly when you expect things to go perfect, there is something that bothers you, at least that is my impression. Let me explain!

My husband is in love with castles and for him it is a real pleasure to visit them all, to examine the defence mechanisms, the differences between castles from the same area, so it was a pity that he visited all or most of the castles form our area, but he did not visit one of the most iconic Romanian castles, the Corvin Castle in Hunedoara.

So on our recent trip to Romania we made it our point to camp a night or two in the area. From what I've gathered, Hunedoara is an old industrial town, with not a lot of things to do or visit, but with some major monuments. It is strategically placed between Timișoara and all the Transylvanian towns liked by tourists.

On itself the Corvin Castle is a masterpiece, too bad that people from the area are not aware what they have in their own back garden and decided to surround the monument with industrial buildings and B&B's.

Still, tourists come from all over the world and mostly from Romania to visit the castle. The atmosphere in the garden of the castle is beautiful, the castle on itself is worth a detailed visit, but the town is a disaster. So my advice to you is to skip the town, visit the castle, and get out.

To prove that everything is connected, the castle was given to Iancu de Hunedoara's father by Sigismund of Luxembourg king of Hungary, merely a title and not a connection with the House of Luxembourg, it still has a relevance for us. Built in a Gothic-Renascence style, the Crovin Castle is one of the largest castles in Europe.

Of course, when you visit the castle, they make a connection with Dracula and Bram Stoker, because Vlad Țepeș was imprisoned within the castle for 7 years, but rest asured none of the castles in Transylvania is Dracula's Castle, except maybe a recently build B&B with this name on a mountain crossing in the region.

For me the visit was bittersweet as I've mention at the beginning. Dogs are not allowed within the court of the castle, and I was told that with such a fury and disgust and I felt so little that I refused to even visit the whole thing. My husband went inside and was impressed and even said it has something from Vianden in it.

The visit takes about an hour, you tour the castle and the towers and the inside gardens. It costs 30 RON which is about 5-6 euros.

Here are some pictures:

I hope you loved reading this post as much as I loved putting it together! Also, if you fancy keeping in contact with me, drop a line at Dichisuri.ro on Facebook.

Raluca